Hej allesammen,
jeg fik lige det her på en mailliste... Jeg har aldrig hørt om det før
- så jeg tænkte andre også kunne bruge det!
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Good info to have on hand.
Here is a digest of experience removing stuck/broken exhaust, head,
and other stud fastners from air-cooled motors (VWs):
The hardest part was removing the self taping screw which holds the
shift rod to the trans shaft. Frozen. Stuck. Wouldn't budge. Heating
didn't help. An overnight soak in Kroil didn't help. Then I
remembered a hint that has circulated on this list and others. The
parafin moment. We happened to have sticks of it in the attic left
over from a Christmas candle making session. I heated the screw with
a heat gun and fed parafin to it, much the way that one feeds solder
to a heated wire. I watched as some of the parafin wicked up behind
the screw head and, I hoped, into the threads. The first time I put a
wrench to the screw after doing this, it spun so easily that at first
I was sure I had stripped the head. Not so. After it cooled, I was
able to withdraw it with my fingers.
Here's my contribution, got it from a GM pipefitter. Stuck nuts (and
bleeder screws) that resist heat, vibration and Liquid Wrench will
often succumb to moderate heat, then a touch of parafin to the joint
between the nut and the stud (or where the bleeder screws enters the
casting). The wax is sucked into the joint like solder into a copper
plumbing fitting, and the bond is thereby lubricated. I tried it on
my drums, and it worked great. Nothing else did. Score one for
skilled trades.
I was stuck with two of my bleeder nipples until I applied moderate
to high moderate heat, then touched a candle to the base of the
nipple. The wax/parafin got sucked into the "socket" (like solder
does when you sweat a copper pipe joint), and Voila! out it came.
Probably doesn't ALWAYS work, buy it did for me, even after much
heat, Liquid Wrench, etc.
heat it with propane to hot, not red, then apply parafin wax and
allow to cool
I use heat a lot more than I used to, parafin sucked in to the
threads and tapping on the bolt. It takes longer than I want it to,
but it's amazing how often it works.
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Frank J. Andersen, DMCN#485
Suzuki T250R fra 1972 OG GS850G fra 1979
